3年ごしの悲願達成!「東京三大煮込み」ついに制覇!
38歳になりました。
普段あまり年齢を意識して生活していないもんで、人から突然「今いくつですか?」とか聞かれると、「えっと……36? 7? いや、8かも……」なんて曖昧にしか答えられないのですが、誕生日ということであらためて数えてみたら、間違いなく38歳でした。
客観的に考えるとなかなか大人な年齢ですよねー、38歳。
僕、いまだに自分が大人になったと1ミリも思えなくて、特に最近なんか、ご近所の移動の足はもっぱらスケボーだし、なぜか急にレゴにハマりだしてしまったし、この夏空前の虫捕りブームがやってきているし、はっきり言って成人する前に精神年齢の成長が止まってしまったんじゃないか? って本気で心配しているくらいなんですが、とにかく世間的には誰がどう見ても大人と認定される年齢ということで(とっくにだけど)、いろいろがんばっていこうと思います。
で、誕生日。
まーせっかくの節目なので、何か記念になる、記憶に残るような過ごし方をしたい! と考え、思いついたのが、森下の「山利喜」さん!
僕の尊敬する居酒屋研究家、太田和彦先生が提唱した「東京三大煮込み」というものがあって、これは酒場文化に興味がある人にとってはもはや常識ってくらい浸透している通説のひとつです。
具体的には、月島の「岸田屋」、北千住の「大はし」、森下の「山利喜」。
この3店の名酒場で出さる「煮込み」こそ、東京を代表する三大煮込みだ、と、こういうわけです。
岸田屋さんは、実は35歳の誕生日に初めて行って、この「大衆酒場ベスト1000」で記事にさせてもらいました。
いや〜あの日は、全行程が今でもはっきりと思い出せるくらい良い1日だったな〜。
次に大はしさん。
こちらは、僕がその後「居酒屋ライター」として、ありがたくちらほらとお仕事を頂けるようになった折、取材で伺うことができました。

その時の記念写真
これまたとんでもない名店、すごい煮込みでしたし、居酒屋界のレジェンドである大将との写真は僕の宝です。
さて、残る三大煮込みはあとひとつ。
さっさと行ってしまえばそれで終わりだったんですが、「どんなタイミングで行こうかな〜」なんて様子を見たりしていると、月日というのは意外と早く過ぎてしまうもの。
ついに今年の誕生日、妻に「どこか行きたいとこは?」と聞かれて「あそこしかない!」と即決しました。
というわけで行ってきましたよ〜、「山利喜」さん。
三大煮込みの最後の一皿は、実際どうだったのか?
その感想をこれから綴っていこうというわけなんですね、今回は。

山利喜 本館
都営地下鉄の森下駅で降りて地上へ出ると、大きな交差点があり、そこから見えるくらいの場所にあります。
ちなみにもう一軒、新館もあるんですが、これも交差点から歩いてすぐです。
歴史は大変長く、初代が森下の地にお店を開いたのがなんと大正14年。
戦争により一度は店舗が失われたりもしましたが、2代目、3代目がしっかりと名前を守り続け、その風格は現在の外観にもしっかりと表れています。

身が引き締まる〜

この豚ちゃんのイラスト
は山利喜のトレードマーク。
お酒を運びつつ、自らもやきとんを食べつつ、体には各部位の名前が入っているというなんだかすごい図。
それでも幸せそうな表情が、大変可愛らしいですね。

入り口ではタヌキもお出迎え
さてお店におじゃましましょう。
今日はオープンを待ってやって来たので一番乗りです。
修行中と思われる若い男性店員さん数人がフロアの接客担当のようで、カウンター席に案内していただきました。

ピシッとした空気感
席に着き、まずはビールを。

サッポロラガービール 大瓶(600円)
通称「赤星」が、歴史あるお店のカウンターにピタリとはまります。
お通しは、切り干し大根の酢漬けでしょうか?
ちょっと珍しい感じですが、真っ白な見た目とは裏腹に味がしっかりしていて、箸休めに最適ですね。
目の前の厨房にはピカピカに磨かれたガラスが貼られ、そのすぐ先に

煮込みの大鍋!
これが憧れの東京三大煮込み最後の砦か〜!
威風堂々としたその佇まいを見ているだけでビールがぐいぐい進んでしまうほどですが、瓶が空になっちゃわないうちに、さっさと頼んでしまいましょう!

煮込み玉子入り(650円)
到着〜!
この神々しいまでの存在感……さすが東京を代表する煮込みだけあります。

これがモツ
「ついにこの時が来たんだな……」なんて感慨深くなりながらも一口頂いてみると、うおぉ、なるほど、これはすごい!
煮込み用のモツには、牛のシロ(小腸)と、ギアラ(第四胃)のみを使用。
シロには上質な脂身もたっぷり残っていて、味付けは抑え目、甘味もほぼ加えられてないんですが、素材本来の奥深いコクがじんわりと身体に染み渡ってくるような美味しさです。
加えて、現在の三代目店主は一度はフランス料理の世界に進んだのちにこのお店を継いだ方なので、香草を束にした「ブーケガルニ」が使われていたりと、ちょっと洋風なテイストが感じられるのもおもしろいですね。
それならば、

ガーリックトースト(300円)
が合わないわけがない!
実際ほとんどのお客さんが煮込みとセットで頼む大定番です。
バジルとバターがたっぷりと効いたトーストに、先ほどのモツを乗せて食べると、これがすさまじい相乗効果!!!
「あれ? 俺今何食べてるんだっけ? ビーフシチュー? もうなんだっていいや、うまいから!」って感じで、今までに食べたどの煮込みとも違う感動体験が待っていました。

もちろん最後の一滴まで拭い切って
はぁ〜食べた。
思わず夢中になって、煮込みとトーストだけを黙々と食べ続けてしまいました。
これにて3年ごしの悲願である「東京三大煮込み」をついに制覇!
と、謎の達成感とともに、やっとひと段落して冷静にメニューなどを見られるようになり、ここからはゆっくりとこの名店を堪能していくことにしましょう。

自家製 お新香盛り合わせ(370円)
お新香ひとつとってもこの貫禄。
それぞれがじっくり手をかけ、丹精込めて漬けてもらった野菜たちなんだな、って味がします。

軟骨のたたき(1人前 2本 300円)
開店直後なので間に合った、1日15人前程度の限定品。
香ばしい皮目の風味にみたらし的な甘辛ダレがマッチし、軟骨の歯応えも心地良いです。
食べられて嬉しい〜。

しろ(1人前 2本 300円)
こちらは同じシロでも煮込みとは違い、豚。
カリカリとクニュクニュの食感が楽しく、肉は濃厚な味わいです。

かしら(1人前 2本 300円)
個人的にやきとんで一番好きだったのがこれでした。
食感はサクサク、噛みしめるとジューシー、脂の旨味が上品で、こんなに美味しいかしらがあったとは! と感動。

酎ハイ レモン(380円)
酎ハイにすらここまでの風格があっていいんでしょうか!?
あ〜爽やか。

築地 安達屋の冷奴 のり佃煮(400円)
築地の老舗豆腐店から取り寄せているお豆腐だそうで、しっかりと豆の味がしてうまいです。
冷や奴は、A:薬味、B:のり佃煮、から選べるので、珍しい方を選んでみましたが、珍味感があってつまみにはぴったりですね。

おにぎり 明太子(150円)
こちらは妻のリクエスト。
僕は一口もらっただけですが、こんなに美しく握ってあるのに、かじるとふわぁ〜っと米がほぐれていって、ちょっと衝撃的な美味しさでした。
これがコンビニのおにぎりとそう変わらない値段で食べられるなんて、はっきり言って奇跡ですね!

酎ハイ 梅干(380円)
これまた丁寧に作られた酎ハイで、ゴクゴクっていうより、カクテルのように一口一口しっかり味わいたい一杯でした。
はい、ここらでもう大満足!
先ほども触れましたが、現在の大将はフレンチの経験者でもあり、メニューには「イベリコ豚スペアリブ」「自家製 豚肉と鶏レバのテリーヌ」「パルマ産 生ハムグリーンサラダ」なんていう洋風のものもあり、まだまだ通わないと真価のわからない、奥深いお店だと思いました。
が、東京三大煮込み最後の一杯、大変堪能させていただきました!
ところで、山利喜ですごく良かったエピソードをもうひとつ。
僕たちの前にひとり、常連さんらしき方がお会計をされていたんですが、フロア担当の若い店員さんがお客さんに対し「28,000円になります!」と伝えているのが聞こえました。
「え? うちらより後から来て、先に帰って3万円弱? そんなに高い店じゃいのに? あ、きっと下町酒場特有のギャグだな」と思ったら、即「すみません、2,800円でした!」と訂正。
八百屋さんでよくある「はい300万円〜」のノリではなく、純粋な間違いだったようで、そのお客さんが帰られたあと、他の若い店員さんとコソッと「なんで俺今、28,000円って言っちゃったんだろ……」「それじゃぼったくりだよねw」と会話していて、ここ数年で一番のほっこり案件でした。
その後は界隈を散歩し、こちらも名店「魚三酒場」さん(門前仲町の本店ではなく、森下近くの常盤店)に寄って、

マグロ刺

ホタテ天ぷら
そして、お客さんに厳しい(だけど心は美しい)店員のおばちゃんの様子などをつまみにもう一杯。
そんな感じで、今年も良い誕生日を迎えられました〜。
感謝!
それでは今後とも、よろしくお願いいたします。m(_ _)m
山利喜
住所:東京都江東区森下2-18-8
電話:03-3633-1638
アクセス:都営地下鉄新宿線、大江戸線 森下駅
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Information:
16 bit CAN FD controller without a CAN FD transceiver. Device can be connected directly to the parallel port of the PC. A resistor divider is included for long TTL signal lines. Two microswitches are provided for closing the calibration switch and the power switch, which powers device with optional 19V or 24V Vcc.
OpAmpsPrg turns your PC into a high-accuracy op amp circuit via PulseWidth Modulation. The period, 50e0806aeb weavsaal
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